
Today is another chilly summer day in the German state of Mecklenberg-Vorpommern. I am sitting on the 4th floor (although the Germans would call it the 3rd floor) of our building, in the apartment we moved into in July. The high today is 63 degrees Fahrenheit (17.2 degrees Celcius), a departure from the pleasant streak of weather that we’ve had in August thus far, where the high has been nestled firmly in the low 70s.
I’ve had to close the “tilt-and-turn” windows and doors (which are ubiquitous across Germany) today because there is too much of an icy chill from the wind, and even with sweats on during this mid-August day, the chill was too much to be comfortable. I felt okay in closing them because they had been open all morning, and thus I did not disrupt the requisite lüften time: a ventilation technique popular across Germany for centuries in which the windows are open daily–ideally across the home or room from one another to encourage a cross-breeze–so that the air remains fresh in the home. If it is cold, it is allowed to practice lüften for only 5 minutes or so at a time–but practicing lüften is still expected to be done every day.
This apartment, like the vast majority of apartments in Eastern Germany is of the Plattenbau style: cookie-cutter apartments all constructed with pre-fabricated concrete blocks. The expanse of Plattenbau apartments that surround the city center of Greifswald is something that clearly marks Greifswald as a town that had, for 41 years, been a part of a communist, Soviet, country. During the time that Greifswald was a part of the GDR (German Democratic Republic), the population boomed due to a nuclear power plant located in the nearby beach town of Lubmin, which has since gone defunct. The majority of the medieval buildings of the town during that time were neglected or torn down, and these apartment buildings were erected en masse instead.
Since the re-unification of Germany, there has been an effort to restore some of Greifswald’s historic charm. Whatever historic buildings remained have been renovated to their previous glory. Plattenbau apartments across the town have been painted and landscaped, to give them some charm and personality. Often the apartments are accented by bright colors–our own apartment building has some orange and yellow. In the old town–most notably the cultural heart of Greifswald, the Marktplatz–the renovations were done so well that it is hard to believe that that is not how the buildings have stood–proud and grand–for centuries, without any Soviet disruption.
I knew very little about German history before moving here, and still do not know much–but I have taken an increasing interest in it. In particular, I have an interest in this land. Greifswald is a city within the German state of Mecklenburg-Vorpmommern. Within that state we live in what is considered “Western Pommerania”, or “Vorpommern” to the locals. As is the case with most of Europe, the history here is ancient, complex, and rife with the changing of leaders and allegiances.
The founding of Greifswald goes back to the foundation of the Eldena Abbey in 1199 by some Danish monks. The land at the time was actually under Danish control. The monks were allowed to use a nearby salt pond to harvest salt to trade as their main income. There is one myth around the naming of Greifswald in which these early Danish monks were shown where to build their abbey by a griffin in a forest. In German, “Greifswald” translates to “Griffin’s Forest”, and is pronounced “Gr-igh-f-s-vald”, although I feel like many people–myself included–drop the “f” and pronounce it “Gr-igh-s-vald” (this may be incorrect and I just sound like a flat-mouthed American goober when I do so). There are still ruins for the Eldena Abbey extant today.
As a fun aside–I have not yet checked out the Eldena ruins, but Michael had previously when he had traveled out here from Madison for a work trip years ago. One of our favorite anecdotes is from when Michael was looking up the ruins on Google in order to navigate to them, and he happened to notice that somebody gave the ruins a one-star review. Curious, he opened it up and it was–almost undoubtedly–left by an American tourist who said touring the ruins was a one-star experience because, “There was nothing to do but walk around and look at [sic]. There wasn’t even a shop or anything.” So beware, if you come to visit the ruins, all there is to do is look at them. Do not expect the chance to buy something while doing so (although I do know that there is a nice ice cream shop–which I have visited–right next to them).
Pretty soon into the development of the abbey the land traded hands from the Danish Rugian Prince to the Dukes of Pomerania (who had for a while been a vassal state of Poland, but had then recently become independent). The Dukes of Pomerania were called the “griffins”, and their emblem was a griffin–which does make me wonder if that is also partly where Greifswald got its name from (although I haven’t seen this officially noted anywhere yet). Although the Pomeranian Dukes controlled this region for hundreds of years, the dukes themselves did not remain independent throughout that time. In fact, it seems they were only independent for about 30 years. In 1164 they became vassals of the Duchy of Saxony.
Meanwhile, solidifying across most of the rest of Germany was the Holy Roman Empire. Founded over 300 years after the collapse of the Roman Empire proper, the HRE was formed in the year 800 when Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne Emperor. The HRE was initially comprised of modern-day Germany, northern Italy, and Burgundy (modern-day eastern France). It lasted for one thousand years, until the Napoleonic Wars in the early 1800s. At its largest, it also contained “Germany, Czechia, Austria, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Slovenia, and Luxembourg, most of north-central Italy and southern Belgium, and large parts of modern-day east France and west Poland” (Wikipedia). Ultimately, its power was concentrated in modern-day Germany, and it is referred to in German history as the “First Reich”.
The HRE’s claim to being a “Holy Roman” Empire comes from it being founded with the blessing of the papacy, and with that blessing being continuously bestowed upon the Emperors of the HRE throughout its reign. As Voltaire has quipped about the HRE: “This body which was called and which still calls itself the Holy Roman Empire was in no way holy, nor Roman, nor an empire” (Wikipedia).
In 1181 the Dukes of Pomerania became vassals of the Holy Roman Empire for five years, were then wrested from the HRE by the Danes for 40 years, and ultimately rejoined the HRE for the rest of the empire’s reign. However, to keep this spicy, and thoroughly European, although the Dukes of Pomerania (and thus this region) were under the vassalage of the HRE, they were also ruled by the Swedes starting in 1637, when the last living Griffin duke was killed in the Thirty Years’ War. The Swedish rulers were allowed to operate as Imperial Princes over their newly gained Swedish Pomerania under the HRE up until 1815 (with Pomerania remaining Swedish for 9 years after the dissolution of the HRE, it seems).
That means that for almost two hundred years, this region was both a part of the Swedish Kingdom and the Holy Roman Empire simultaneously. In 1815, Western Pomerania came under the rule of the Kingdom of Prussia. In 1871 the region became a part of Germany once more.
Greifswald’s official name is in fact the University and Hanseatic City of Greifswald. During the late 13th century, the town joined the Hanseatic League (or The Hansa). This was a network of northern European towns that either existed on or close to the Baltic and North Seas. The league acted as a trade and defense agreement amongst the towns. It started in northern Germany and expanded, ultimately containing towns across all of the Baltic coast, from what is modern day Estonia to The Netherlands. It never really had a true governing body, but was a collection of city-states that dominated trade in the Baltic and North Seas throughout the Medieval Ages.
The Hanseatic League is where the modern-day soccer club of the region, Fusbol Club Hansa Rostock (FCH) gets its name. As a quick fun fact–we learned from a friend here that the soccer club fanbases in Germany become known for their political leanings. There are clubs with left-leaning fans and right-leaning fans. FCH is very right-leaning.
In 1456 the University of Greifwald was founded, making it the 26th oldest university in the world, and the 4th oldest University in Germany (behind Heidelberg, 1385; Leipzig, 1409; and nearby Rostock, 1419). The university is still an integral facet of the city today.
Greifswald made it through World War II without much damage, even though it housed a large German garrison and a Prisoner-of-War camp (I am not sure where this was). The camp operated as a labor camp for French, Soviet, Serbian, and Belgian POWs. During the end of the war, Greifwald surrendered to the Red Army without a fight. Following the Berlin Declaration and Potsdam Agreement in the aftermath of WWII, this region fell under Soviet occupation in 1945. The GDR (German Democratic Republic) was founded as an independent nation in 1949–although it was given its “independence” by the Soviet Union, it was still considered a part of the Soviet Eastern Bloc.
In 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany, Greifwald once more became a part of Germany. There are lots of cultural curiosities that I feel like are probably unique to Eastern German towns that abound in Greifswald (I am welcome to corrections on this front). First and foremost, it is undoubtedly culturally German. It has all of the aspects of a modern, comfortable, German life, including ubiquitous bike lanes, a bakery in every grocery store, towel warmers installed in every bathroom, every single window and balcony door being the aforementioned tilt-and-turn, and kleingarten plots sprinkled throughout the city.
In alignment with Germany everywhere, everybody takes most of the late summer off, as I have discovered while trying to tend to several things these past few weeks to no response (in general, the customer service in Germany is not good. It’s good if you’re there in person, but if you need to email them or submit an online form, forget about it. You may never hear back).
I recognized that I needed to get a cleaning and check-up with a dentist in early August. After one humiliating phone call in which I tried to speak German with the receptionist (to which she responded with absolute silence and then very fast German once I apologized for my poor German), I was determined to find a dental office and dentist that spoke English–or at the very least that my Millenial-ass could book online to avoid the terror of another awkward phone call. After learning of a couple of offices that were reportedly English-speaking friendly, I kept trying through their online booking (itself a very rare thing here) and email to get in touch with the office staff to see if I could book an appointment. After hearing nothing back for a couple of weeks I finally called, was sent straight to voicemail, and was eventually able to piece together that the entire office (of both dentist offices I was trying to get in touch with) were all on vacation until mid-August.
Our deposit return for our first apartment was delayed because the accounting staff for our landlord was all on vacation. Our rolladen (another ubiquitous, excellent German appliance–motorized, inter-locking blinds that rend a room entirely dark with the push of a button) has been broken for a few weeks and it can’t be repaired because the rental office for our building was on vacation, and now I think the maintenance workers are on vacation because I haven’t heard anything from them, which the rental office said I would (or it could just be that poor customer service culture again, who knows).
Despite all of these cultural components that are decidedly German, there are also some elements that are unusual, especially to us Americans.
This can perhaps be seen most clearly in our soviet apartment building. The apartments here are expected to be long-term dwellings, even though the vast majority are rented. I think it is partly due to this that rent is so cheap here. The few houses that there are in Greifswald, most of them are duplexes. Because each apartment is intended to be a long-term residence, the residents are often expected to customize them to their liking, to make them feel truly like their own home. This not only means that tenants are free to paint the walls, but they can change the flooring, the landscaping, the cabinets, the appliances–whatever they like.
The flooring in our apartment is odd in that there is linoleum flooring everywhere (made to look like hardwood), that is installed rather poorly (presumably DIY from the last tenants) over carpet. When we first discovered this we assumed this was just a poorly done job–but when Michael brought it up to a German she told him that that is a common practice around here, because you have the aesthetics of the linoleum-wood floor, but the carpet dampens the sound for your downstairs neighbors.
We also discovered that there are several expectations for tenants that we had never experienced before. Most kitchens come appliance-less. This is because it is common practice for people to buy their own appliances, and then to bring them with them if they move. Being able to snag a “fitted kitchen” that comes with the appliances (like we were, thank goodness), is rare–but I think increasingly becoming less so. We were also surprised to discover that we were expected to supply our own overhead lights for the rooms. Our apartment came fitted with a light for the kitchen, bathroom, and entry hallways–but nothing for the living room or either of the bedrooms.
There are some positive aspects in our daily life that presumably come from Greifswald’s tenure as a communist city. One notable thing is that there does seem to still be a sense of leisure around the concept of paying for things (except for taxes, of course). Michael has been participating weekly in a sailing club. When he first talked about joining, and what the fees were, people were rather insouciant around the whole thing. There is a general consensus, it seems, that before one pays for membership to a place, it is appropriate for one to experience what they have to offer for a while before they need to make the decision around paying for fees. So although Michael has been a part of the sailing club for a couple of months, only last night did they ask him if he’s thought about paying to be a member (no pressure though).
We were also introduced to this lovely climbing gym that has some real communist vibes. Similar to the sailing club, there has been no pressure for us to pay for any of our times we have gone to climb. We were told that the membership fee is 90 Euro every three months (which is cheap–its about what we were paying monthly for our gym in Madison), but that nobody checks for membership status. It’s entirely honor-based, and again, there was an expectation that we’d climb at the gym for a while before we even needed to consider paying. Plus, they let us bring in Daisy Mae, and she gets to nap and get pats while we climb, which is a definite bonus.
I am grateful for this opportunity to live in this other country, learn about its rich history, and experience its cultural oddities. Although I was tentative to move here at first (to put it lightly), it has proven, so far, to be an enriching chapter in my life. I have so much time to make art, write, and read. I finished last month a charming book called A Little History of the World, which was written in the early 1900s by an Austrian ex-pat who lived in Great Britain (it was very interesting reading about world history where the US is only seldom mentioned. Although it was still largely focused on European history, it was still an interesting perspective–and it is here where I first began to learn more about German history, of which there was much more of an emphasis, due to the author’s biases).
My German is slowly getting better (at least the vocabulary is–German grammar and sentence structure is really hard). I am a person who thrives once I’m rooted, and I’m looking forward to becoming increasingly established here over the next year. Hopefully by then I will have made it through all of the awkward initial bookings for the various doctors, I’ll have a decent handle on the language, we will have finally figured out all of the taxes we need to pay (a new one springs up seemingly every month–like the media tax we just learned about that every person pays for to support independent media, or the dog tax for Daisy Mae), and all of our rooms will have overhead lights.
This information in this post almost entirely came from cross-referencing several Wikipedia articles. Thanks Wikipedia!
Reading now: Stamped from the Beginning by Ibram X. Kendi , The Hero of Ages by my boi Brandon Sanderson, and We Are Three by Rumi (translated by Coleman Barks)
Listening now: My ever expanding Greifswald Summer playlist

